Ankara, Türkiye

This is Ankara, Türkiye, one of the places I’ve lived in the past, and one I’ve visited recently. Let’s be real. This city is not my favorite by a long shot.

As you can see, Ankara is similar to Denver in that it sits in a bowl and is ringed by mountains. The smog is trapped most of the year. I understand Mexico City is like this as well, but I’ll reserve my opinion on that once I visit there. In the winter, there is some snow. It has four distinct seasons, and much of the city is park-like, with lush trees and greenery.

“What’s not to like?” you ask.

I cannot warm up to this city, even though it is where my beloved mother-in-law lived until the end of her life. I still have family and friends here. We visit annually. And I still hate every minute of it.

Why? I feel completely trapped. Even when walking alone, shopping, or simply running errands, this city makes me feel unwanted and unwelcome. Istanbul has significantly worse traffic, a much larger population, and a pressing need for you to plan your life carefully to ensure you arrive on time at your destination. Yet that city reaches out and wraps me in its arms and says, “Come on in! It’s great to see you! What will you do today? Sit, sit, have a tea.”

And Ankara? Bupkus. It turns its head and walks away.

In Istanbul, whenever I shop, I'm always engaged in conversations, regardless of the area of town I am in. I get the usual questions of where I’m from, where I live, and why I am here. In Ankara? Zilch. They are only interested in taking my money, checking me out, and moving to the next customer. One girl refused to let me purchase the items in the drugstore without a Turkish telephone number. (I don’t have one.) It took her manager to override whatever she had done so that I could leave with my shampoo (and there was still a discussion of the need for a Turkish telephone number).

There are some cool things. The photo below was taken in the Atakule Mall, a relatively new shopping area attached to the Atakule Tower, the city's highest point, where people go for the view, similar to the Space Needle in Seattle.

A close-up view reveals that the students collected waste and transformed it into a whimsical piece of art. I found it interesting that this art was located in a very expensive mall, most likely visited only by diplomats and other politicians who are in the area near government centers and embassies, rather than the larger malls where the general population could see and enjoy.

The folks do have a sense of humor. This neon sign on a florist’s window made me smile. Her real flower art, to the right of this sign, was truly art.

I must give this city some credit. It proved to be a solid foundation for our international business, providing us with a wealth of talented employees from Bilkent University. We wouldn’t be where we are today without that talent and experience. Our curtains and sheets are sourced from here, and if you're looking for something made specifically for you, Ankara might be a better place to find it than Istanbul or other cities.

My family tells me that the city has experienced a significant population increase due to the massive earthquakes that occurred further to the east. Those living in the earthquake-ravaged towns had to find new places to live on their own, given the snail-like speed of the government’s rebuilding plans. Masses of them moved to Ankara, the largest city closest to their area, and the city is growing faster than the government can keep up.

Thus, the smog. Hang in there, Ankara. Electric charging stations are being installed, and more electric cars are hitting the roads. Maybe one day I’ll return and your air will be clean.

Here’s hoping. And maybe you’ll invite me in for tea.