Ten Hard Truths About Moving to Istanbul

This article is a bit long for email and might be better read in the app. There will be a 2nd edition forthcoming also.

People who never travel have tunnel vision, and in my experience, want the rest of the world to see everything “their way.” That tunnel vision completely explodes if you decide to reside in Istanbul, whether for a few weeks, years, or a lifetime.

Here’s what I think is essential to know about any move to Istanbul, or any other part of Türkiye. These are my opinions, and I reserve the right to express them. If you think otherwise, scroll on down to the comments and let it fly.

• Learn Turkish.

  • Communication is the key to everything you do in this country. While my journey to learn Turkish is exceedingly slow, I realized last night after dinner with a Turkish friend that my vocabulary has grown. She also mentioned that my hesitancy to speak was less. Likewise, after a trip to visit family friends in Izmir, my understanding has increased.

  • You must focus. My biggest problem learning the language is when I lose focus and let the conversation turn into background noise while I think of something else.

  • Often, conversations with your friends are frivolous. Yet, like last night, the conversation was about essential topics, and I placed my phone up on the table with my translator app open, as did my Turkish friend. It is times like these that I am no longer embarrassed to use it. I want to understand what the person is saying. One misunderstood word in a sentence, as you know, may change the entire discussion.

• Use Public Transportation.

  • Istanbul’s extremely narrow streets make it very difficult to own a car. While we have one, and our apartment has one reserved parking place for it, I don’t drive it unless forced to. I take public transportation.

  • The train system is extensive and goes to all parts of the city. They are constantly building new lines and cross-connections as the city grows. Using the trains is incredibly inexpensive compared to other large cities. You can pay with your credit card or by using an Istanbulkart.

  • The metro buses have their own designated lanes that automobiles cannot access. They are also fast, clean, and air-conditioned.

  • If you have a car, you will need to allow extra time for traffic jams. For example. The Istanbul Airport is an hour (51 kilometers) from my apartment on the Asian side of the city. It usually takes two to three hours to get there. We’ve modified our flight times to leave in the middle of the night to avoid these extra hours.

• Study a Map of the Entire City.

  • This city is expanding at a record rate. For you to use public transportation, you must know where the end of that train line is. If you don’t know the neighborhoods, you won’t know which line to take. DON’T always rely on Google or Apple Maps when you are in a hurry. Take time to study where you are.

  • Update your knowledge regularly. Again, the city is rapidly growing.

• Pick a football team, even if you don’t watch football (soccer for the Americans).

  • I don’t watch soccer. Yet when I’m asked for my team, I immediately spit out “Manchester United.” Why? They are a UK team familiar to the Turks, but it isn’t based in the country. No one can claim I don’t know soccer, and I’m not caught up in the local Galatasaray / Beşiktaş / Fenerbahçe rivalry that strangles Istanbul.

  • Go to your first football game with a Turk. There are customs, chants, etc., for each team that you’ll need to know before you go. Some of the games get a bit out of control. For those big games, you’ll need to be with a local.

• It is Not a Secular Country.

  • There is an ezan five times each day. Embrace it, learn the significance of each, or don’t move to a predominantly Muslim country.

  • There are other religions in Istanbul, and, for the most part, they are tolerated well. I have visited several different Christian churches in the area over the years and had no problems.

• Learn the Local Customs, Reputations, and Expectations.

  • Each city is different from the others. And the way that Turks view each of them will be different from yours. I’ve been told which cities are “untrustworthy” and which ones to avoid. I’m a rule breaker, and tend to ignore these types of comments.

  • Each neighborhood can be significantly different from another. This is true in most cities. I have no problem wandering through places I don’t know well, but learning about the area beforehand has always been beneficial.

  • Parts of Istanbul are very westernized, and you will think you are in a historical section of New York or another large city. Other parts are very religious, such as the Fatih area, and alcohol is not served in any restaurant. Again, it’s helpful to know where you’re going before you go. Do a little research.

  • Even as a tourist, I would not visit the eastern part of the country without having a scarf on my person and a Turk along with me who knows the area.

• Pick your Neighborhood Carefully. You’ll be here every day.

  • I fell in love with a neighborhood in Beyoğlu on the European side of the city. There were lots of expats, tourists, and I didn’t stick out. We walked through the area, looked at apartments, and talked to our friends. One apartment building was lovely until we returned and “our” living room windows faced directly into the cabin windows of a cruise ship. With others, the buildings were on such a steep hill that going to the grocery store would be a tremendous chore. Yes, there is delivery, but for everything? I use my feet a lot, and this didn’t seem practical.

  • On the Asian side, I liked several neighborhoods. Again, we walked them, talked to realtors, the same drill. I felt a discomfort I couldn’t identify until I realized I had fallen in love with a very religious-leaning neighborhood, and I was many times the only uncovered woman.

  • In my current neighborhood, no one pays me any mind. There are enough foreigners that I don’t stand out, and my neighborhood is generally left-leaning. The only downside is that everyone wishes to practice their English with me rather than allowing me to speak Turkish with them.

• Keep your Mouth Closed about Religion, Politics, and Other Things unless you know your audience very well.

  • There are lefts and rights in every country. Unless you are fully versed in every law that can have you arrested for something that you’ve said, keep your mouth closed. There are rules here regarding specific matters. Know those rules. (Another post for another day.)

  • I knew this going in. It doesn’t mean I like it, but I’m facing the same problem in my other country. Pick your battles.

• LOOK at your surroundings. History is all around you.

  • As in any huge city, step over to the side next to a building, put your phone in your pocket, and look around you. There is a lot to see here. You don’t need to take photos of everything. Stop and enjoy the experience.

  • One of the best views of Istanbul is from the Metro. If your nose is in your phone, you’ll miss it.

• It’s not all about you.

  • Talk to the people around you. You have a lot to learn about their lives, including how they are forced to live and how expensive things are due to economic factors and inflation. Walk in their shoes.

  • Ask people questions about themselves. They will likely ask you about your feelings regarding the current U.S. administration. I change the subject and get them to talk about their lives. I’m here to learn new things. The only way I can do that is to speak to the people who live here.

• Most important:DON’T LEAVE YOUR COMMON SENSE IN YOUR PRIOR COUNTRY

On a final note, the audiobook is out on Audible. If you aren’t an Audible member, this can be your free book if you are interested in a membership.

Thanks for reading.